Planting Roses In The Garden
Roses bought in containers can be planted in the garden at any time
of year when weather permits. It is best to plant in spring, or in fall
in warm climates, so that the roots can establish themselves in your
soil before they are stressed by heat. If you plant during hot weather,
however, be sure to check vigilantly to make sure the rose has enough
moisture for at least six weeks after planting.
Bare-root roses, on the other hand, are available only when the roses
are dormant. Planting times vary according to the severity of the winter
climate. If temperatures do not fall below 10° F in your area, you can
plant whenever the dormant roses are available. If the minimum winter
temperature is between 10° and -10° F, plant only in the early spring or
late fall. If the coldest temperature in your region falls below -10° F,
plant only in the early spring.
In cold-winter regions you can plant whenever the ground has thawed out
enough to be worked easily. Generally, the best advice is to get a plant
into the ground as early as possible to give the root system a head
start before the foliage forms. But if you often get severe spring
freezes, wait until the danger has passed. A newly planted young rose
can be killed by a severe drop in temperature.
Don't plant bare-root roses on windy winter days when the temperature
may drop below freezing. The combination of low temperatures and drying
wind can be fatal to the tender new plants.
Planting Bare-Root Roses.
 Before planting, soak bare-root roses
in water for a few hours (but no longer than 24 hours). Keep them in
water until you are ready to plant. Trim any roots that have broken.
After preparing the hole as shown on the previous page, position the
plant in the hole. The roots should not be twisted or curved. If one or
two roots are too long for the hole, prune them back to 8 to 10 inches
so that they will fit without being crowded.
Position the plant vertically by laying a spade handle or stake across
the hole to align the bud union—the knobby protuberance on the stem just
below the canes, where the cultivar was grafted to the rootstock—with
the level of the soil. The bud union is particularly sensitive to
extreme cold, and its proper planting position is a point of
disagreement among rosarians, even those within the same region. A rule
of thumb is that it should be 2 inches below the soil in severe-winter
areas (lows below -10° F), slightly above the soil in cold-winter areas
(lows between 10° and -10° F), and 2 inches above the soil in
mild-winter climates (lows above 10° F).
Build a cone of soil in the center of the hole to support the spread-out
roots and to hold the plant at the right level. With the plant in
position, fill the hole two thirds full with enriched soil,
hand-pressing it to remove air pockets. Then fill the hole with water
and let it soak in. Finish filling the hole with soil, firm it gently by
hand, and settle it with a second soaking of water. Mound the soil at least 8 inches high around the plant. You may need
extra soil for this. Moisten again. This mound protects the plant from
drying winds and warm sun and provides additional moisture a rose plant
needs when it is developing.
Leave the mound intact until the new growth appearing at the tips of the
canes is 1 or 2 inches long and all danger of frost has passed. Then
gradually acclimate the plant by washing away a bit of the mound each
day.
 Bare-root tree roses should be securely staked after planting. Place the
stake on the south side of the plant to partially shade the trunk, which
is sensitive to hot sun. |
